Hi Michael, great post and great build. I have been looking to upgrade to a HERMS system for years and am now ready to take the plunge, and, having done a fair bit of research, think I will go with your build concept as it is a nice cross between the Electric Brewery and the Brewery on the Cheap. One question, what are the exact versions of the switches you are using as I get confused between the 1 NO, the 1 NO/1NC etc.
Thanks for your idea and for your help.
Glad that you like it! You will be very happy with the panel!
You just need switches with NO (normally open) blocks (so, not activated till you press/turn). If you get the switches at auberinc.com, just chose the ‘2 NO’ option. Also, make sure to choose ‘Maintained action’ (once activated, switch will be ON till you press/turn again).
Please let me know whenever you have a question. I’m glad to help where I can!
Great, thanks so much, makes sense now.
another couple of questions. I see your contractor is 120V but this is a 240V build?
also, from what I can see, the ink it’s pid you are using can only take k-type thermocouples, is this correct? I was planning on using pt100 types. Can this pid handle these, or if not, why did you chose to go with k-type?
thanks again for your help, very much appreciated.
Cheers, Ben.
Ben,
The coil of the contactor is 120V. We use 120V on the coil to close/open the contactor. The contactor itself is a 2 pole contactor, built to switch up to 600V and 30 AMP's.
Check this out to understand how a contactor/relay works.
I'm using PT100 sensors with the Inkbird PID's. They can all handle different types of sensors, including PT100.
Check here.
OK, got it.
Thanks again for your help. Will now start gathering the components.
Cheers, Ben
OK, have done some more reading and thinking on this one and still have a doubt that I am heading in the right path. As I live in New Zealand I have a mains supply at 230VAC @ 50Hz. So do I need to make any modifications to this panel to deal with this as it occurs to me that your panel was probably built for US 110VAC?
Just want to be doubly sure before laying down the cash.
Thanks again.
That changes a few things Ben. Forget about any 120V components (like the 120V coil contactor), all your components must be rated for 230V. You will have to adapt a few things. Start reading this to begin with.
Ben,
If you are still looking to get that done for New Zealand, please head over here.
I can help you to adapt to 240V
This is the switch I am looking to purchase. Which style would I order? I've attached a link
A switch for what? Pumps? Element selector?
Sorry about that.
Alarm switch with integrated LED indicator (2xNO)
No problem! ?
You want 110V, 2 positions, 2 x NO blocks.
A few $ more and you get it within a few days from Auberins.
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_73&products_id=349
Thank you for all your help
Anytime!
