My 240v 5500w Singl...
 
Notifications
Clear all

My 240v 5500w Single Element K Rims Panel Build

10 Posts
3 Users
3 Likes
4,505 Views
(@genuine)
Active Member
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 8
Topic starter  

First off, Big Thanks for putting this website together.  I can't tell you the number of hours (countless hours) I've spent researching and planning I've spent and how useful it has been.  Even got a copy of your Guide.   I'm building a 2 Vessel K Rims Panel and wanted to simplify a panel I built with a buddy a couple years ago for his system that we both use to brew.  Since then, I've purchased my own house and wanted to be able to brew whenever.  I was getting tired of propane and finally took the plunge into electric. 

This is the system I've been brewing on with a buddy:

I was so pleased with the performance of it that I planned to build one for myself! Plus, the ability to crank out a batch in 4 hours was very alluring! I’ve been brewing for about 6 years now using a Mini E Herms system to keep consistent mash temps, along with a bayou classic banjo burner for heating sparge water and boil.

I did about 3 batches at my new place with This set up and was reminded of the time it took to heat up water, get to a boil, and always needing propane. I finally took the plunge and ordered the components to build my panel. I have a 240v 30a outlet downstairs by my dryer at my disposal and it’ll be where I can brew regardless of the weather.

So, taking some inspiration from Kal’s set up, and skrilnetz.net panel build and Joe Aka Terpsichoreankid on Youtube, I knew I wanted to build a simple single PID, one element and one pump panel. I’ll be doing full volume no sparge kettle rims brewing since the other system has been working so great and more importantly, cutting down time it takes to brew.

Here’s the day after getting some items in, and planning placement:

Next, tons of measuring and re-measuring and double triple checking, I cut the holes using a jigsaw and step bit:

Next step is Paint which I should be able to get accomplished tonight. I’m beyond excited to start wiring!

Things Left to Order/Do:
-Prep and Paint Enclosure
-Install Panel Components, switches, lights, PID, etc
-Begin Wiring
-Test
-Order Element, and 10/3 Cable for HotRod Heatstick. I currently have a 2000w 120v element in there with 12/3 cable...which I'm on the fence about using for 5500w element. Pros/cons would be appreciated (plus it would save me some extra work).
-Power Wire and figure out if I'm going to put in a GFCI Breaker or go the Spa Panel Route. 

I've ordered a couple 1/2" Detachable RTD's from Amazon, and have received a 4 pin detached cable. I returned the first one for being a 4 pin and wanting the 3 pin since that's what it looks like everyone is using and got another 4 pin in the mail yesterday. Main reason for going with the 3 Pin is because I want to get a 2nd RTD to install through the T in my boil gettle (will need RTD with 6" long probe) and I noticed that Auber Ins has that with 3 pin RTD. Anyone else using 4 pin?


   
Quote
(@genuine)
Active Member
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 8
Topic starter  

Got it painted and began installing components this morning 


   
ReplyQuote
michael
(@michael)
Member Admin
Joined: 10 years ago
Posts: 198
 

Thank for sharing! The panel looks great!

As of for the 4 pin RTD, check this out:

http://blog.wika.us/products/temperature-products/rtds-3-wire-4-wire/


   
ReplyQuote
(@genuine)
Active Member
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 8
Topic starter  

Hey Mike!  Thank you sir, your site has been a huge inspiration.  

I've been researching and the issue with the RTD's I ordered isn't with how many wires...however on the detachable connector - I have these with 4 PIN RTD connector (although, still has 3 wires)

Whereas Auber Ins has the 3 Pin (see connector on left side of photo). Since I want to be able to detach the cable from one sensor to the other, I'll need both to be the 3 pin, since Auber's 6" temp probe is a 3 pin detachable connector. 


   
ReplyQuote
(@genuine)
Active Member
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 8
Topic starter  

Update: 

I finished about 98% of the wiring last night.  Just need to pick up the main power cord and solder the xlr connections today 


   
michael reacted
ReplyQuote
michael
(@michael)
Member Admin
Joined: 10 years ago
Posts: 198
 

Good job!


   
ReplyQuote
(@genuine)
Active Member
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 8
Topic starter  

Just fired her up this afternoon and made sure things worked!  Glad to report everything worked as planned.  

I organized and zip tied the wiring as well.  I just need a couple fittings and I’ll be able to have my first electric brew day at home! 


   
michael reacted
ReplyQuote
(@genuine)
Active Member
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 8
Topic starter  

Here's a quick Mock-Up before I get the Brew Stand built.  Finished soldering the temp sensor connections.  I'm also waiting on a couple T, Elbow, camlock and new hoses before the whole thing is operational and can do a water test, auto-tune PID and test the counterflow wort chiller.

[img] [/img]


   
michael reacted
ReplyQuote
(@genuine)
Active Member
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 8
Topic starter  

I just finished the Stand.  Made it into a super clean install, hid all the wiring - Can't wait for the maiden brew!

 

[img] [/img]


   
ReplyQuote
(@jeffwiley)
New Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 1
 

Hi..how did you go about making cables for them? I quickly tried to find the name of the connector but haven’t found it yet. The main reason for wanting the 3 pin is that auber has an RTD with 6” probe which is surprisingly difficult to find anywhere else.


   
ReplyQuote
Share: