Hi there,
I'm sorry for the confusion. I think it's just because I was not exact with my diagram.
You are overthinking this. Everything needs to be connected. See it as a single point. That's true for the hot and neutral bus.
You could also use a single point junction and it would be the same.
So it doesn't matter where exactly you connect the wires, just make sure that all is connected with jumpers.
Think of it as water and pipes, all needs to be connected to be able to flow.
Let me know if you have more questions...
Thanks Mike, that is all the clarification i needed for that. I assumed that was the case but i wanted to be sure i wasnt missing something.
Great! Any questions, just let me know...
Mike, I wanted to start testing my connections on the PID, Sensors, Alarm, Switches ect and wondered if it would be possible to test with 110 voltage by temporarily wiring for a 110 receptacle? I wont be able to really test the heating elements and 220V outlets but I would think I could fire up the rest of the system? Do you see any reason why I couldnt do this?
Thanks,
Chris
Hi Chris,
It’s a good idea to test after every step. You can test the 120V circuit if you don’t have 240V available at this time. You need one hot, neutral and ground wire. Every component on the 120V circuit will work.
Happy testing!
Hello Mike, I was able to test the PID, Ammeters, switches and buttons, so far so good.
I wanted to see if I can get power through the contactors without 220v. I applied the 120v to the 120v side contacts and it triggered the close position but I want to run the 12ov through where the 220v normally would run. Can I jumper back from the side 120v positions to the main contacts where the 220v normally would run through? Also, when I do finally run 220v through the main contactor, is the the white neutral from the 220v that is triggering the contactor?
Hi!
Not sure if I understand the question…
Our contactor has 2 poles, each pole will carry 120V. It’s nothing more than a switch with 2 separate lines. You enter with 2 wires (red and black) on one side (each 120V) and when the contactor is activated (closed), current will flow on the other side.
So how do we activate (close) the contactor? We apply current to the coil (the contacts on the side). In our case we have a 120V coil, so we connect one hot line on one side of the coil and the neutral wire on the other. We use a switch on the hot line to open/close the contactor.
Does that help?
Mike,
Yes that does help. I have an extension cord wired into a 3 prong twist lock, from there the ground is wired to the box. Where I was running into trouble was I could apply the hot and neutral to the (side ports) coil to activate the close position or I could apply the hot and neutral to the face (which doesnt activate the connection). I could only do one or the other. I wanted to be able to do both so I was wondering if I could run a jumper from the face (hot) with a power switch to the coil side and do the same on the other side so I could activate the coil closed connection and also provide current through the contactor. Again, this is just to test all connections. I will tweak it once I put 220 to it. sorry so long.....
I think that is what you want to do, right?
Yes, that is correct.
No problem testing it this way!
Almost, I would jumper the neutral as well to the face of L1.
Hello Mike, so I have the spa panel in, 3/10 wire is run and I was able to power up the herms panel, it was a good day. My question is, while testing output to my 2- 220v receptacles for the HLT/BT, I am only getting output of 110 to one leg (Black) of the receptacles. I am not getting a full 220. Is that because I do not have my PID programmed (Red leg) yet nor do I have the temp probes installed yet. Do I need those to be set up before I can fully test the outputs on the 220 receptables?
Hi there,
The 2nd leg will only be HOT when your PID is firing. If it has a sensor and the sensor is not connected, it will not work. You need to set a temperature and the PID will start firing. There is usually a led (OUT) on the PID which will light up when it’s firing.
Let me know if that helped…
Thanks Mike, that is what I thought. Just wanted to confirm it.
